
Volubilis History
Volubilis
is the site of the largest and best-preserved Roman ruins in
Morocco. It dates largely from the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD,
although excavations have revealed that the site was originally
settled by Carthaginian traders even earlier.
The visitor who makes his way to Volubilis sees the
ruins of this old Roman town from afar. While it is true that
the most visible monuments date from the first to third
centuries a.d., when the Romans occupied Volubilis (then called Oualili,
later transformed into Volubilis), a Mauretanian Berber village
of roughly-built houses had already existed there for several
centuries.
It is also almost certain that the site was also occupied in Neolithic times. Before the arrival of the
Romans in Morocco, the Berbal tribal leaders had
come under the influence of the Phoenicians and Carthaginians who had started
frequenting the coast in the seventh century
b.c. Towns such as
Oualili began to copy the Punic urban and social model.
However, in the first century b.c.,
the Berbers supported the loser in the
power-struggle among the Roman generals, were defeated, and a young
Berber prince (aged five) was taken captive to Rome. Brought up
in the household of the Emperor Augustus, where he was
educated in the manner of a
young Roman aristocrat, this Berber prince was sent back to Africa
by the Romans in 25 b.c. as
king of Mauretania. Taking the name of Juba
II, he established his capital at Caesarea (Cherchel) in Algeria
and his "secondary" capital in Volubilis. His
reign lasted almost 50 years, and brought
prosperity and cultural prestige to Morocco.
Juba II was responsible for the town's first important
monuments. Cultivated and
scholarly, he brought in architects who embellished it with
public buildings and private houses. But in spite of his
efforts, it was only after the annexation of his kingdom
by Rome in about 42 a.d. that
Volubilis became endowed
with buildings whose ruins are admired today.
Roman power in the kingdom was represented by a governor,
whose seat was in Volubilis.
The Roman town was protected by 3 km of ramparts, with
towers at regular intervals and 11 gateways—the northeast one
is the most visible today. Its cosmopolitan population is
estimated to have reached
20,000. The majority of the townspeople were natives of Morocco,
while others were
Roman government officials, soldiers of many nationalities,
and Greek, Syrian, and Carthaginian merchants. The town
prospered from its
trade in olive oil (many houses had their own presses), wheat,
and trade in wild animals for the Roman games. As in most
Roman North African towns,
the first monuments were built at the beginning of the third century
a.d., especially
under the Emperors Septimus Severus and Caracalla. But as their
empire shrank, the Roman administration was obliged to leave the southern part of the Moroccan protectorate.
Volubilis, the
provincial capital, was evacuated around 285 a.d..
However, the departure of the merchants and the
Roman army did not mean the end of all activity in the town. The
local population continued to live and trade there,
altering the urban layout by building their small houses in the
middle of the roads and burying their dead in the
abandoned villas. Some inscriptions and tombs show that a
community of Christianized Berbers continued to occupy the town
until the eighth century. When, in 789, Idriss
I was proclaimed imam {religious leader), Volubilis
reverted to its old name
of Oualili. The later founding of Fès started its definite
decline, and the 1755
Lisbon earthquake finished it off.
Excavations in the
town were begun at the end of the 19th century. Many monuments were revealed and restored by French
archaeologists, and their work is continued today by teams of
Moroccan archaeologists and
students. Many of the mosaics are still in place, but the superb
bronze and marble statues and numerous small finds have
gone to the Archaeological
Museum in Rabat. A few mosaics and statues decorate the garden
by the ticket office, but precious items are no longer on
display, some having been stolen in the past since security is
difficult to assure in this
out-of-the-way place
The structures in
Volubilis are comparable to other Roman ruins found throughout
the Mediterranean area, and the mosaic floors are among the
finest in existence.
Moulay Idriss,
a beautiful hilltop town founded in the 8th century, is a holy
city for pilgrims.
Volubilis
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